Celeriac, the unsung frog prince of winter vegetables.

Pare off its warty exterior and you'll uncover the royal vegetable within: a perfect, ivory-fleshed winter alternative to potatos or other starches. It is surprising that a vegetable that is so delicious, wonderfully hearty and eminently storable — and makes such a boldly verdant show in the garden — is practically unrecognized in the United States. In Europe, however, celeriac is a historic favorite. The vegetable's most classic employment is in the cold French salad celerie remoulade, in which the root is peeled, grated, "cooked" in lemon juice (or blanched briefly in acidulated water) to lose a bit of its rawness, then dressed with a mustardy mayonnaise. Celeriac is cousin to anise, carro

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